Once It Was Called Garden City
It used to be quieter, once upon a time, when
it was mostly local people and a few science research institutions and mostly
parks and trees. It was even then known for a cooler climate and gentle
surroundings, but humanity goes for living wherever people find necessities of
life - water and fertile earth, in older days; jobs, today. The quiet town
remained so for a long time, until a few factors came together in time and met
here and blew it up.
India deciding to be liberal economically and
releasing the stranglehold of government on industries was one, and the IT
factor with internet and www was another - the two put together allowed a lot
of people in India and companies from the around the world to find each other
desirable to work with and find a suitable place - and this one was more or
less perfect. Cool, quiet, not crowded then, not troubled by any local politics
factors (leftists, militants, Naxalites, racists) making it impossible for
talent from elsewhere to come and stay put and make a life - temporary or
otherwise - in the town here. If this was not enough there was even a then
quiet pub culture, before it had exploded and become another social phenomenon.
Those working late at night could go relax with a drink, and that helped the
international companies feel at ease. What else would the foreign visitors do
away from home!
So the building industry boomed first, with
new buildings coming up and land being bought around at rapidly escalating
prices that had a high acceleration curve - hotels, flats, houses, offices,
everything was needed more. Multinationals arrived in droves and so did various
potential employees from all corners of India - and even abroad, since various
NRI young people found it more attractive for the first time to return to settle
in India - and the town grew and grew. The roads still had bumps and taxis were
mostly rare, with autos ruling the roost, often being arrogant and rude in
refusing local passengers, looting for the ignorant foreigners to dupe them
into shopping at the various outlets that had names to fool those very wealthy
people - names that copied the names of reliable government shops - and
pocketing what commissions those fraudulent outlets offered. Travel within town
became unpleasant, what with the bumpy roads, the kerosene that was commonly
used in not only trucks and auto-rickshaws but even some private vehicles used
by middle-class owners. Air was too foul to breathe and people risked health in
going out.
Soon, the pubs were not enough, and nor were
quiet old style pegs at the pubs - the young were exhilarated with never before
imagined levels of income and the flow went into not only brand name clothes
and shoes and the newly available stereos and home entertainment systems, it
had to spill over into parties to show it all off, and newer sensations for the
parties to make them one up on others. Some NRIs were heard at mornings at
gyms, neither whispering nor loud in expressing their shock and the goings on
at the local scene, at the regular swinging they saw here, and their inability
to join in due to commitments they had back over there. This certainly was a
turnaround.
The prosperity made its demands heard soon
enough, with foreign clients displeased over how long it took from airport to
city to various IT offices. The city - the town had now definitely grown to be
a city - could not afford to displease them, since the new phenomena of
health-care tourists were far too valuable to lose. Often a person in need of
an operation could travel, have the problem taken care of, and travel within
India for a few weeks as well, all for the price of the same operation back
home - and with no loss of quality in health-care in the equipment, medicine or
doctors but much improvement in terms of personal care by nurses and so on. So
the medical tourism was booming and unthinkable to lose.
The city pulled up its socks and got on to
making roads and reducing pollution, and finally deciding on a venue for the
huge new airport that had been in the offing for well over a decade, with
indecisions about the venue due to political factors. The pollution was reduced
effectively with public education and a little help from the govenment to the
vehicles - auto-rickshaws especially - and it was only a recalcitrant or out of
the state truck or so then on belching smoke, and then pretty soon those too
reduced because public shame does what laws don't often. So now it was time to
begin building the much needed infrastructure - roads, airport - even as some
old politicians vented steam against the IT industry from time to time for not
"benefiting the poor" or some such blah, not because they meant it
but because they had probably not had any slice off the IT pie.
Soon enough the momentum gathered and while
many dates were declared for the finishing of the approach road for the new
airport, soon enough (that is, in a decade or so) it looked as if the airport
would finish sooner than the road to lead to it from the city. Which would have
been ridiculous, since it would then be necessary to operate a full jet service
from the new airport to the old one to get to the city. So the private builders
of the new airport were obstructed with the various permissions and inspections
and so forth that the various branches of the government could co-operate with
each other in not providing too soon, and the builders being foreigners were
steaming through every pore instead of trying the regular back channels of
getting things done. Finally the road was completed in the sense that vehicles
could ply to and fro - and the city had brand new bus and taxi services plying
exclusively to the airport, which were so enthusiastically and quietly embraced
by the people that the numbers and services had to be extended. Those who had
predicted the new bus and taxi services as too expensive and doomed to failure
had reckoned without the people's need for good services, for value for the
money paid.
Meanwhile even as the new road and the traffic
were getting used to the still going on road building and various far too few
over-and-under-passes for traffic, and the widening that was still going on,
one problem no one had thought of was becoming critical every day - no one had
thought of the people who lived along the road and used the various road
services, such as buses or other vehicles other than their own, and hence often
needed to cross the road, walk along on the side, and so on. Those in the city
were adept at managing since they were used to the traffic, although the
traffic thereby became not quite so much of a highway as a goods train traffic
- slowed and stopped according to the needs of the cross traffic, the
pedestrians crossing everywhere - (allowed or not), and the policemen often
switching off traffic lights under the illusion that they could do a better job
personally, and hence making a thorough mess of it further.
But the highway went further into the rural
areas with fields on both sides and there being no barriers constructed on
either side to prevent any stray crossings nor any provisions anywhere along
the highway to allow people to cross with either over-bridges or underpasses
(the latter could be worse, but useful for animals and old and handicapped)
there were accidents every other day, and the villagers blamed it on the high
speed traffic that would not stop when they saw anyone crossing - and so they
jammed the road by stoning the vehicles and crowding on the highway, which was
duly reported in newspapers. So that then became a mode of protest for any
reason at all - latest being prices of tomatoes dropping low and so the farmers
jamming the road with a few truckloads of tomatoes dropped on the highway.
The drivers, not necessarily only the
professional but even the owners, are another story. Still mentally in the
times when they would bicycle around various obstacles such as stones or
animals or puddles, they drive any vehicles they happen to be driving the same
way exactly - so you suddenly find a bus veering left without warning and
stopping for a bus-stop and then veering right back all the way right to the
fast lane - which is always occupied by trucks, buses, and even auto-rickshaws,
anyone who in fact cannot speed for his life - while the other buses do not
wait for this one to move on but try to go around it to stop ahead of it, and
so on, while other vehicles play the game too - no one would let anyone else go
if they could help it, and everyone tries to take every half inch available on
the road, by shifting into another lane or ahead or laterally, even.
Motorbikes go round every vehicle to fill in
the gaps left by other vehicles and if they bang on your car they wonder why
you are upset, you are not dead are you? Tempos do their best to take out your
mirrors - serves you right for driving an expensive car, you are not even a
powerful official or a politician that could threaten them - and they succeed
often enough; what can one do, thrash them? The owners of the vehicles claim
they have no provision for the driver doing anything to you, you can do what
you like with him; and the driver pretends to be poor and old, while secretly
he is exultant to have punished you and jubilant you can do nothing to him,
actually he owns a three floor house that is nine times the size of your own
tiny flat. So you let him go and wash your expensive much loved leather seats
with Lysol, just in case. And shout at your driver for competing with the
stinking guy and then making him sit in your car.
Meanwhile, thousands of trees have been felled
along the roads to widen them, and the once upon a time so called Garden city
is on the way to becoming a desert with fields and orchards converted to tall
building complexes for flats and offices and malls - that being the latest need
of the city, of the young uprooted population that needs somewhere to go during
off hours, to meet people and to relax and to see a film and shop, even.
Further along the highway the fields and orchards are giving way to vineyards
that will serve no need of anyone at all other than losing consciousness
further, but no nutrition for either rich or poor.
Someone asked how I liked it here. Perhaps the
answer was rare, since most people that come from outside do like it, and why
not - they are young, just graduated from somewhere in the country where it is
too hot in summer and possibly very cold in winter as well, and now they have
come here for a very lucrative job and get company of peers while losing
parental grip on their day to day life. I am not in any of that category -
including those of pub or disco goers, or club either. I have nothing for me
here, I said to him. It is life in a limbo, while I have been still waiting
patiently for life to begin.
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Dear Dr JG
ReplyDeleteI have been enjoying your writing very much, and decided to be bold and say so. I came across your blog via a Google search for the theme of Saints Progress by John Galsworthy, a book given to me as a present at Xmas 1970 by a man who had what can truly be described as a noble character. Sounds old-fashioned, but that he was.
kind regards
Seth