Other Side Of The Globe
First time I flew out it was to visit someone,
and then I had been unsure too, but it wasn't the same this time. I was flying
to a destination common enough for students flying out in thousands every year
- U.S. of A., that is - from India. That first trip had been a dream lived and
a flight into a dreamland - this was real and a trip to what was to become a
home for a few years, and a home for heart for much more than those few years.
I had got intimation of acceptance (subject to
English speaking skills) while on the first visit abroad, which was in yet
another continent, halfway. But then the correspondence had been nowhere for a
while after my return, and finally when I asked - those days it was only
regular mail, and that took three days to Germany but often two weeks to U.S. -
they replied to say, oh sorry, excuse us, it was a delay due to mix up because
the students who work here are not permanent - both factors were characteristic
of the place, students working to earn money as well as prompt replies (from
them - it is not their fault the mail takes long), that I came to admire soon
enough.
So it was merely three weeks before one needed
to be there, when I had finally got papers and had to face various official
hurdles - visa, first, and that was being made very difficult that year.
Various people, colleagues and so on, had had to give various assurances of
eventually returning, and still prove they meant it, and would have to. Such
proofs meant little of course, and most of them stay on regularly. I gave no
assurance and returned eventually. The miracle was getting the visa. I had had
a nice woman officer interviewing and we spoke courteously on both sides and
perhaps she was impressed I neither lied nor pleaded - I had given up, hearing
all the tales from others - and whatever it is she gave a visa for next few
years. Only, the passport wasn't valid that long! Anyhow, that was the first
hurdle.
Next was to get reserve bank clearance and
again, it worked, miracle number two or three by this time - arrangement of
money to show - and of course to spend for the ticket - had been another one of
course. Then it was time to actually pack up the room in the hostel, go
shopping for what one could think of as necessities for the next few years at
least in terms o clothes, and go. During the pack-up stage I travelled every
day to another town to leave things there, four hours each way, and finally
managed to get into the taxi with two suitcases - a colleague walked by just as we were doing that, and asked "I heard you are going
abroad", and I just pointed at the trunk being packed with my suitcases,
too tired for words. There had been no farewell from anyone in the institute
after more than three years of being there, other than this.
The flight was nice enough, with a change at
Heathrow - with its interminable walks then between the plane and the transit
lounge, unlike the wonderful Frankfurt Airport I had seen jut a few months ago,
compact and full of so many conveniences with short distances to walk. Things
have changed since - now Heathrow is wonderful, compact and attractive in each
terminal we have visited in the last decade, and Frankfurt airport that I saw
is now difficult to see - one is usually at a terminal and too tired to walk to
the central part, and there is walking enough from one gate to another and the
anxiety to be there at the next gate in time - on the whole leaving no time to
try to see the central part. Anyway then with all the walk and so on at
Heathrow and change of airlines from Singapore to BA (- The first one gave
earphones for free, the latter charged a few pounds!) I arrived late in the
evening, twenty two hours since boarding the plane in Bombay (officially it is
Mumbai now - but it was always Mumbai to the local people officially and
unofficially; it had three names then, one extra in Hindi as well) but
technically it was still the same day, what with most international fights
leaving India in the small hours of night and arrival in U.S. being in the
evening "the same day".
The friend whom I had visited had been
informed by telegram a week ago, but the telegram arrived only after I met him
so it was no use. Telegrams worked fine in India and in Europe, but in U.S. one
had to switch to phone and that was not so easy then, since most people in
India did not have phones and it was far too expensive to call, either way. One
was far more dependent on ambient society unlike today.
Anyhow the friend had written about his
arrival and the information helped, and after arriving at a reasonable
temporary place to stay - and lugging the two heavy suitcases up four floors, total weight of all luggage more than mine -
I went out to look for trying to find him, but it was not as simple as the
hometown I came from where one merely had to mention whom one was trying to
find and someone - even everyone - around knew and gave directions. I managed
to find him next morning and by the evening had found a place to stay, and
shifted and bought groceries for the week. This was rather dizzying, hectic
pace and it was not about to get any slower.
That day was an introduction to various things
- Boston, transport, Cambridge, Harvard square, Newton and Watertown, and salad
bars of U.S. - the concept of salad as in U.S. was a far larger extension of
the usual concept elsewhere. Here it was not only raw and green things but all
sorts of vegetables either raw or cooked, chickpeas (of course cooked), kidney
beans, rice, fruits, and so on. As long as you ate it cold it is salad, and
there were salad dressings that are now ubiquitous but were then new to someone
from India, and so on. Salads became a way of life, along with sandwiches as
lunch alternatives; hot Indian meals were for evenings and weekends, normally.
Next day was also first day of the quarter. I
had bought a map the day before and went to the place, with a change of a
couple of buses or so, and while I was walking to the university someone
stopped me and asked directions to another place. Not only that person, born
and brought up right there, had not taken me for an outsider and obvious
foreigner, but asked me for help with directions and I was able to give
accurate directions immediately too. This brought the character of the country
forth as no speeches would - one could belong immediately, and generally did,
unless otherwise oriented, which then weren't many. I didn't meet any who
didn't want to stay. This was home, not the same as the that which one had
arrived from but another one could be just as much home in.
This characteristic, too, was expressed in all
the talks one casually and inevitably had on bus stops and in buses all too
frequently - people asked where I came from, said "wow I always wanted to go
there", and then asked if I liked it here, if I would like to stay there - and
it was obvious they wanted to hear yes, of course I do, it is so wonderful
here. This attitude made one feel welcome and at home, in a very basic, very
true way.
That day being the first day involved getting
to the department and meeting the professor who was supposed to grant the
assistantship, based on English speaking ability, which I had been unsure of
what exactly they meant - but it was done in less than five minutes of a casual
chat in the corridor, and I got to know why the stipulation had been put in
place. Then it was a couple of other initiation meetings where I met two people
who had come from Bombay too - one actually came from my hometown and from a
rival school, so it was more than just a language in common. We settled into a
pattern of chatting an hour a day on phone every evening.
Soon it was a routine - six a.m. rise and bath
and get ready and out by seven to catch a bus to the bus stop for the express,
catch another bus from Copley at the public library to the university, and
teach a class eight to nine; then it was a free office for students to consult
(officially there were supposed to be three office hours a week, but in practice it was often well until time to leave at three to rush to catch the express back, about six hours a day - perhaps five, since we did take time off for lunch and I remember chatting with colleagues over coffee); lunch with the friend from hometown, and generally chats with any colleague from the department who dropped by or was around.
Since the office where I was given a desk was actually a large room where department coffee equipment was situated, and since I sat closest to the coffee at a corner table with a window, anyone who came for coffee would normally say hi and ask if I wanted some and we would chat, politeness on their part and genuine interest on mine - so I had friendly coffees with almost everyone, and got used to telling them exactly what amount of crème by showing the back of my palm to indicate the desired colour after adding right quantity - the rest mostly had black coffee - and chats were usually about the world, since the department and particularly the office (we were about some twenty odd in the office) was filled with people from everywhere.
Since the office where I was given a desk was actually a large room where department coffee equipment was situated, and since I sat closest to the coffee at a corner table with a window, anyone who came for coffee would normally say hi and ask if I wanted some and we would chat, politeness on their part and genuine interest on mine - so I had friendly coffees with almost everyone, and got used to telling them exactly what amount of crème by showing the back of my palm to indicate the desired colour after adding right quantity - the rest mostly had black coffee - and chats were usually about the world, since the department and particularly the office (we were about some twenty odd in the office) was filled with people from everywhere.
A Palestinian sat close and informed me they
did not believe in family planning (Indian vague phrase that includes using any
means of contraception) since children are blessings of God, and that he was
afraid of Indian food because he had to leave within one week when he tried to
get his education in India due to effect of spices. He got upset if I so much
as mentioned turmeric, and claimed I was terrorising him.
A Somalian was much surprised and gratified I
knew where Somalia was, vaguely; this was to repeat later with various people -
one from Hanover, for example.
Another one from Zimbabwe had an argument with
me - he said anyone who did not have a car was poor and I disagreed. He said it
was difficult to manage if one lived on a mountaintop and had to come down for
groceries to market. I thought and said it was not a natural way of life in the
first place - humans don't go live on mountaintops if they need to trot down
for groceries every day, humans first and foremost settle near a body of water,
and seek to grow food, and that is how most human settlements grow. He refused
to see the point.
The initial hot weather soon gave way to
colder weather, and unlike the pattern in north India one never knew whether
the next day would be twenty degrees colder or hotter, unless one listened to
weather forecast. That became another routine, and I learned to call time and
temperature or even better, weather, before getting up in the morning. But
often the cold at bus stops was unbearable, and I would look at other office
goers and especially the women who were in nylon stockings and skirts - the
compulsory uniform of women, office workers and so on - and wonder how they
survived.
The landlady invited me for dinner at Xmas if I was not doing anything else, and
I said ok, but was a bit embarrassed and tried to go out to visit a friend.
That day was COLD!! I had to walk down to the usual second bus stop, no service
on the road we lived on, and on the way there was a Howard Johnson's where one crossed a bridge over the highway below - and that day I went in, it was so cold, ready to tell anyone who asked what I was doing there that all I needed was to warm up a little before proceeding to the bus stop, all pride shelved by the cold. No one asked or bothered me and the pathetic need of survival did not take down dignity of someone that poor in the rich surroundings only due to their more than courtesy, their assumption that I had a right to be there and minding their own business until I was ready to ask for their services, so I was left to warm up and feel better, and in five minutes I went on.
There was just one more guy there at the bus stop, and we shivered there, standing - it was so cold my bones turned to water, and I understood why people dance, if we did not move and stood still as normally would it would be colder. He did move as in a dance although it was clear it was due to cold rather than wish to dance at a bus stop. Finallyafter an hour he gave up, since two buses had failed to arrive and the likelihood was none would. I went back too.
The landlady and her son were much amazed I had dared to go out - it was minus five Fahrenheit, and with windchill factor it was minus forty, they said. I lost my fear of cold, the unknown factor of the new home, that day on. If I could survive that and be fine, I felt quietly confident within, then it was going to be all right - and it was.
There was just one more guy there at the bus stop, and we shivered there, standing - it was so cold my bones turned to water, and I understood why people dance, if we did not move and stood still as normally would it would be colder. He did move as in a dance although it was clear it was due to cold rather than wish to dance at a bus stop. Finallyafter an hour he gave up, since two buses had failed to arrive and the likelihood was none would. I went back too.
The landlady and her son were much amazed I had dared to go out - it was minus five Fahrenheit, and with windchill factor it was minus forty, they said. I lost my fear of cold, the unknown factor of the new home, that day on. If I could survive that and be fine, I felt quietly confident within, then it was going to be all right - and it was.
It was another home, certainly while I lived
there, and since then has been so for our hearts - for when I met one I married
that was the first thing we exchanged information about - Where are you from? -
and when it turned out we had Massachusetts in common we knew why we felt at
home within less than a second of meeting. When we visit, which is not often,
we feel at home as soon as formalities of immigration are over. It has a lot to
do with the country, the nation, and its people.
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I still miss a great deal of those things close to heart, the brilliant autumns and cold winters and uncertain springs of New England - no autumns are as brilliant as in that region with the bright crimsom hues topping the usual yellows and at best orange of elsewhere, and Europe is all muted dull reds and browns with its own beauty of an oriental carpet, but the bright New England autumns are unmatched with the sapphire blue skies and bright clear golden sunshine and cool breezes and the trees decked out in red, scarlett, crimson, orange, and a bright yellow at the very least. Winters are sharp with cold and wind and snow one wades up to knees through if one steps off the sidewalk into grass, bracing cold bringing one alive in a way cold of Europe with a lesser cold but deceptive chill does not - there one thinks one is ok and knows one is not, until suddenly one's back hurts and one knows definitely. Spring in Europe has flowers blossoming everywhere, fragrant and colourful - New England has blossoms struggling with snow that refuses to leave and sometimes falls again right up to April or even May, and still the crocuses and magnolias bloom, right up to when winter gives in and suddenly it is summer. And what a summer, with deep shades of maples cooling one when it does not rain, which it does most weeks.
More than most other things though one wonders if the beauty of Tanglewood was a dream, but no, we visited in recent years and it is every bit as beautiful and more as we remember. Perhaps we might have another summer to experience it all again, or more. Who can know what future might bring! Meanwhile, there are wonderful memories we share much of.
We don't argue about our very different languages, rather they give us another area to communicate about. But invariably for years whenever I spoke of Boston and its many wonders, he would argue Amherst was better. Last time we visited we saw one another's home towns and more, and he was happy I conceded the beauty of his past homes and towns. New England after all is what brought us together - perhaps something deeper at another level, but the more obvious was we both feeling at home together in missing New England and recognising it in one another.
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